Evaluation of the anti-wrinkle effect of a lipophilic pro-vitamin C derivative, tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid

source extracted confidence: high 2026-04-09
#ascorbic-acid #emollients #female #glycolipids #humans

Evaluation of the anti-wrinkle effect of a lipophilic pro-vitamin C derivative, tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid

Yokota et al., 2022 | J Cosmet Dermatol | Rct

Citation

Yokota Mariko, Yahagi Shoichi. Evaluation of the anti-wrinkle effect of a lipophilic pro-vitamin C derivative, tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2022-Aug;21(8):3503-3514. doi:10.1111/jocd.14604

Abstract

BACKGROUND: Tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid (VC-IP), an oil-soluble vitamin C derivative, is known to be effective for treating photoaging skin caused by oxidative stress. In addition, it is known that morphological changes of the skin occur on the face with aging, and the main cause has been reported to be photoaging. AIMS: There have not been any published reports that examined the clinical effects of vitamin C derivatives on periorbital wrinkles. The purpose of this study was to characterize the potential anti-wrinkle effect of VC-IP. METHODS: A double-blind, randomized, placebo-controlled, split face clinical trial was performed on 3 groups of 23 female subjects each who used 1%, 2%, or 3% VC-IP creams versus a placebo cream to treat their facial wrinkles. VC-IP cream was applied on the periorbital area on one side of the face of each subject twice a day for 8 weeks and a placebo cream was applied on the other side. Anti-wrinkle effects were evaluated by visual wrinkle grading and topographic assessments. RESULTS: Periorbital wrinkles treated with VC-IP twice a day for 8 weeks showed marked or moderate improvements according to visual observations and grading of photographs. Moreover, topographic assessments confirmed the improving effects of VC-IP, and more interestingly, the appearance of those effects differed depending on the VC-IP concentration. In addition, sufficient improvement was observed in parameters reported to be associated with dermal structure at lower concentrations of VC-IP. CONCLUSIONS: These results indicate that topical application of VC-IP cream reduces periorbital wrinkles caused by skin aging.

Key Findings

Periorbital wrinkles treated with VC-IP twice a day for 8 weeks showed marked or moderate improvements according to visual observations and grading of photographs. Moreover, topographic assessments confirmed the improving effects of VC-IP, and more interestingly, the appearance of those effects differed depending on the VC-IP concentration. In addition, sufficient improvement was observed in parameters reported to be associated with dermal structure at lower concentrations of VC-IP.

Outcomes Measured

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Population

Field Value
Population See abstract
Sample Size See abstract
Age Range See abstract
Condition stress

MeSH Terms

  • Ascorbic Acid
  • Emollients
  • Female
  • Glycolipids
  • Humans
  • Skin
  • Skin Aging
  • Skin Diseases
  • Treatment Outcome
  • Vitamins

Evidence Classification

  • Level: Rct
  • Publication Types: Journal Article, Randomized Controlled Trial
  • Vertical: vitamin-c-skin

Provenance

Source extracted via PubMed E-utilities API on 2026-04-09